No, Sir, I Am Not A Survivalist

 It's not secret I'm not a survivalists. At least, not in the sense of that term that most think of or practice to be. In all honesty, the word/phrase has started to bug me when I hear it attached to bushcraft. Which for the record, I'm not the biggest fan of that word/phrase either, but it does fit the skills I practice and use. Anyway, back to survivalism. This is what Wiki defines survivalism as:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Survivalism

Which is spot on to everyone I know who practices it defines it as. That, does not fit me or why I practice the skills of bushcraft.

If you look up bushcraft, Wiki has this to say:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bushcraft

I like that they add Woodcraft into the definition as that's what most of us are actually practicing.

As one can see, while they are similar, they are not the same thing. A survivalist needs to have some bushcraft skills, but a bushcrafter does not need to be a survivalist. Some might argue that being prepared for a natural disaster is both. But, that's incorrect. Bushcraft is practiced in the woods. It's about being able to go off into the woods and know how to build stuff. Not sit around your house counting rounds of ammo or dusting the bunker in your basement. Yes, many woods roamers should have the skills to get by should they get lost or maybe hurt, so they should be prepared for that type of situation. So in a slight way, you could say your learning survivalism. But, that's also sort of like saying you need art class to survive life after school.

So, the reality is, whether some want to admit it or not, bushcraft and survivalism are not the same thing.

But, as I mentioned, a bushcrafter is prepared to get by in the woods for a short time (or long term) while waiting for help. Perhaps a sort of little kit to aid in this? Hmm.... I am going to call this kit my emergency kit, not my survival it. So the question is asked a ton, what do I need in this kit? Well, the real answer is only you can answer that. That's not a stand by response, that's a fact. I have talked about this so much I sometimes feel like a smurf. A perfect example of what I mean is this: What you put in your kit to be prepared for a night or two lost in the Arizona desert in Winter won't come close to working here in NY in Winter. What someone in MI would need in Summer won't be the same as what someone in GA would need. So, you see, only you know your environment, and more important, your needs. An example of a need, is a knife. Are you proficient using a folding knife for hard tasks, or are you more skilled using a fixed blade knife? Are you able to make cordage from natural resources or would you be better off carrying it? Do you know what plants are edible? Only you know the answer to those three questions.

Are there some base universal items? You bet. Here's what your EMERGENCY KIT should contain at it's base.

●A first aid kit. If you live in venomous snake country a good snake bite kit should be part of that.

●A compass.

●A knife. I suggest a fixed blade. Everyone likes high carbon steels, but here's some food for thought: A stainless blade can be used in a pinch as a signal mirror. Coated blades or knives or high carbon knives with a lot of patina won't work. But, a shiny stainless blade will reflect light the same as a mirror. So, you can eliminate a mirror by carrying stainless.

●A fire kit with at least three ways to make fire. Carry what you know you can use.

●Cordage. At least 50 feet, and strong enough to lash a shelter frame or make a pack frame.

●Some sort of metal container. A single wall stainless bottle is a good option as it can be used in a fire to boil water and as a drinking vessel.

●Water Purification system. A straw, tablets, either or, or both.

●A light.

●A little pouch with some coffee, tea, and couple bouillons is a great idea.

This is a barebones list of items you should have. If you watched my video on the belt kit, that's a great starting point and you can add or remove items that you would need or not need.

If you watched the last video, on what was in the Advent Survival Calendar, I go through what was in that and discuss why some it if was useless and how to make parts of it sort of useable.

I covered a little more than my original topic here, but feel I'm passing along good information to the readers. Knowledge I have learned through trial and error. I also repeat a lot of this information, and too often it seems.

I also want to add, a ferro rod is not a fire steel! A fire steel is sued to smack a rock to create a small spark. A ferro rod is scraped with a sharp edge to throw molten metal into a tinder bundle.

So, you see?

No Sir, I am not a survivalist.

Axe Edges

 If you ask how to sharpen an axe or how sharp an axe should be on the internet, you're going to get a lot of varied replies or information. I'm going to add to the confusion, as well state a few things that will make a collector cringe.

You can sharpen a wall hanger any way you like. Make it hairsplitting sharp and use it to shave.

You should not make a user axe or hatchet shaving sharp! Yes, I just said that! The sharper and thinner the edge of an axe is, the easier and more prone it will be to chipping or possibly rolling. An axe should be sharp enough to cut paper, and that's all that's needed. It merely needs to be able to chop and cut through wood fibers. It does not need to help with manscaping.

Some people like to reshape the axe head. There's nothing wrong with that, but a user axe should be sort of wide at and behind the cheek. The theory to thinning the cheek is for felling and making the edge slice/cut into the wood better. To make chopping easier. But a thin axe head isn't always the best for splitting. A wider cheek and butt make it much easier to split wood. A wider cheek will cause the wood to septate (split) easier. Look at a splitting maul and you'll see exactly what I mean. So it's sort of a catch 22? No. Not really. I'll explain:

When we head off into the woods to camp, the odds of felling a tree are slim. Very slim. In fact, most states do not allow us to fell even dead standing trees on public land. So in reality, felling can be removed from the equation. This leaves us with possibly needing to buck and split laying and downed trees. Bucking is more or less the same as felling. You want to chop the log into reasonable size lengths to be able to split. But now you open a new conundrum- it's difficult to split small pieces of wood that do not have flat ends. The best way to fix this is to use a saw to buck and an axe for felling and splitting. But, we're not talking about saws here, are we?...

So what's the best options? Loaded question. No right or wrong answer, but I will suggest using something with a sort of thin bit, while the cheek widens a bit to force easier splitting. Something like a convex angle to the cheek with a fair amount of depth to the cheek area. Sharpened enough to cut a sheet of paper. This will offer a decent edge for both bucking and splitting.

Just my personal point of view from almost 5 decades of camping and using axes. Feel free to join the discussion over on the Firepit Outdoors Forum.

Stuff

There are thousands of forums, sites, blogs, schools, books, videos, blah blah blah, that talk about the gear for bushcraft. So I'm taking my turn. But-

I'm going to talk about the most important ones here and that's it. I'm going by store bought gear for this, so if you're looking for a lesson on how to poop a rabbits foot out of your butt, make cordage from armpit hair, or make fire by rubbing your ears together you're in the wrong place.

Things that everyone should have in a backpack or with them when heading off into the woods. This is a minimal list with some options.

First aid kit. At minimum a small boo boo kit with some band aids and bandages. If you live in venomous snake country make sure the kit has a snake bite kit in it. It boggles my mind at how many "lists" don't mention a FAK.

Compass (and a map if possible).

A lighter, matches, or a ferro rod with a scraper. I suggest all three but.....

A good knife.

A water bottle.

Cordage. Something strong enough to make a shelter.

A loud whistle.

A flashlight.

Water purification tabs.

A bag or pack.

This is a very solid foundation. This list can be added too or made smaller, and should be built to fit your personal area.

FAK:

Make this as elaborate or sparse as you wish. But some key items are of course any medications you take like heart pills etc., bandages in different sizes, some alcohol prep pads (work as fire starters too), some ointment for burns or miner cuts, medicines like aspirin and little duct tape to make a splint in an emergency. Chest sealers and a TQ are also a good idea. Toss in a whistle as well and maybe even a plastic mirror.

Get a book of first aid and study it.

COMPASS:

This is a tool everyone should have with them heading into the woods. Especially when going into unknown lands. I also suggest a map of the area you plan to be in. Maps are as easy as saving a page from the web and printing it these days and this method is more or less free, I mean, you pay for that internet so why not get a little something back besides hanging out on my awesome blog and fantastic forum. I would/will never rely solely on electronics for all navigation, invest in a decent compass.

Go someplace very familiar and practice with the compass. Start by learning navigation from one land mark to the next, and the next, and the nest, and so on. Having that map you printed will come in handy as the top of the page will be north, so you can use the map and compass to navigate without having to dive into the world of aeronautics to navigate.

FIRE:

There is no skill more important than being able to make a fire. It will dry your clothes and your person, warm you, make water potable, cook your food, be used to signal for help, keep animals away, and most important it can comfort your mind. A good fire kit should have at least a lighter, some stormproof matches, and a ferro rod with a scraper. I would also suggest learning to use flint and steel and a magnifying glass (if you're AO will allow this method). Friction fire with a bow drill is a good skill to know, but would be the last thing I'd suggest if I were teaching someone due to the fickle aspect of proper materials and conditions. If you're hurt or need a fire ASAP it's just not worth the success to failure ratio. If you have a small kit with the lighter, matches, and a ferro rod with a scraper you're going to be fine. I suggest a dedicated scraper to use with a ferro rod as not all knives have sharp spines for scraping, and not everyone wants to properly sharpen the spine of a knife.

I also keep some tinder with me. At minimum a few dry cotton balls. A small piece of fatwood is a great option and you can order it online.

Practice with twig fires and tinders. I say this because in the woods you're going to have and use small twigs to get fire going most often. Next would be split wood and using shavings. Practice with both but the twig fire should be prominent.

KNIFE:

I would have two. I strongly suggest a good fixed blade belt knife on your person and a folding knife in your pack. The style of knives is a personal choice. I would recommend if your choice of folding knife is a Swiss Army Knife, get one with a small saw on it. The same goes if you prefer an actual multi-tool. Other than that I only say carry both the fixed blade belt knife and the secondary folding knife.

Learn to use your knives. Even to do dreaded batoning. If you use you knife to split some smaller wood you may be able to get to a dry middle if the wood is damp. You don't have to split down giant logs here, but being able to split smaller diameter sticks into kindling should be something you want in your wheel house. Also learn to use the knife for carving, which you can practice my making try sticks and shavings. Both teach control and are skills worth honing. Of course your going to use those knives for food prep too.

Make sure you can at least sharpen your knife as well. Often in the field if you have a leather belt you can use that to strop the knife back to plenty sharp enough for camp tasks. Or you can carry a pocket sharpener which makes life easier.

WATER BOTTLE:

This is another one of those personal choices, at least as far as material goes. But if going metal, go with a single wall and not an insulated bottle. I say this because a single wall stainless steel water bottle can be set in or near the fire to boil water without damage to the bottle or harm to yourself. You can make a double wall insulated bottle a little safer to use in and around fire by making a small hole in the outer shell. The hole removes the pressure between the walls so it won't warp or crack as easily.

Plastic is also very acceptable (not in fire of course!!). Just use some purification tablets if the need arises.

CORD/ROPE:

This is mainly for tying out shelters, making a ridgeline, replacing a shoe lace, making a cooking tripod and that sort of thing. So basic 550 paracord is fine, and even the stuff from big box stores will do. I would keep a hank of 50 feet, one of 25 feet, and a few small hanks of spare cordage on hand.

I would go over and have a look at the knot section here. You don't need to know a ton of knots, but the few I suggest will do fine around camp.

I do carry some heavier weight rope when camping too. Often it was simple cotton clothesline rope. Not only can you use it as rope it's also a good tinder.

FLASHLIGHT:

I always have a flashlight on me. even on a daily basis most of the time. Seeing with a little light is much better then trying to see on the dark, and a little safer to boot. Once again this is a personal preference. But I really suggest going with battery operated over rechargeable. I can always be sure to have some spare batteries on hand while in the woods more so then making sure I have something to charge a light. A lot of folks like headlamps, which I prefer for hunting, but in camp I like a hand held flashlight of at least 100 lumens.

WATER PURIFICATION:

I keep some water purification tablets in a few of my first aid kits and take them when I feel they will be needed. Boiling from a moving stream or creek is usually safe enough, but not so much from standing water like lakes or ponds. To be safe I not only boil the water from the latter but also use the tablets. It truly sucks to put bad water into your system. Consuming bad water is about as much fun as hitting your thumb with the claw side of a roofing hammer.

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This by far not meant as a complete list. It's simply the foundation, as I stated above. A small stove of some sort with a little fuel, cooking and eating implements, spare clothing...... There's plenty to be added as you see fit. I generally have everything but a sink so.........

 

Vintage VS Modern

 If you look around you're going to see a lot of gear with the bushcraft label. From knives to underwear. From gloves to hats. Marketing has laid a big claim to the hobby and it can be a little numbing to sift through it all. Leather and canvas or modern synthetic materials, old school steel on a knife or super steel. Titanium or aluminum cooking gear...

Does any of it really matter? No.

I see guys using old heavy canvas tarps, oil lanterns, eating their food from a slab of wood, wearing 1800's style boots and or clothing, but having to have the latest knife steel.

On the opposite side of that spectrum I see guys using ultralight or more modern gear but only carrying a Swiss Army Knife which is a pretty classic knife in old school steel.

Does either matter? Nope. Not one little bit. But it is a solid topic for discussion.

I will admit, I have scratched my head many times when I see someone in a campground using an old style canvas wall tent but running a generator to power a TV. Or using an ultra light tent and using an old fashioned oil lantern. There's nothing wrong with either set up. We all do bushcraft a little different and it's not the gear, but the skills we have that should matter more. Magnacut or 1095 should mean nothing if you have knife skills. Canvas or poly for a tent or tarp means nothing as long as your shelter keeps you dry.

Most of my gear is sort of newish. I like lighter tents and I have a few lightweight tarps. I still have and use the old big box store heavy tarps too. My tents are modern materials. My knives range from tactical to classic in look, but I don't think I have any in a super steel. My cookware is either stainless or titanium these days as carrying cast iron is a bit heavy and I got away from aluminum decades ago. I got rid of the ALICE gear to opt for lighter packs and pouches. I use battery operated lanterns instead of gas. I do have a a few gas stoves that get used, but not often. I live in an area where fires are not permitted on the local public land, so I do use a solid fuel stove pretty often. Due to some health stuff most of my camping is car camping these days, and I still prefer the lower weight of more modern gear.

The only point here is the materials of your gear don't matter. Using your gear and developing wood skills is what matters. So go out and have an adventure with your chosen gear and enjoy the time in the woods. Trust me when I say the woods don't care if it's canvas and leather or poly or silnylon or AUS8 or AEBL.

It's Not The Knife

 Growing up I can't recall any of my friends who cared about things like steel, edge grind, the shape/profile of a knife, or if sparkled like a diamond in direct sunlight. We bought knives we wanted and we went off into the woods and used them. Often for things you're not supposed to use a knife for like opening cans. I had honestly never heard a fuss over such things until around the same time I heard the term bushcraft for the first time. Man, the arguments people get into over those things boggles my mind. I suppose I get it, but I'm still of the school of a tool is just a tool and it's up to the wielder of the tool to be proficient with it. I mean there's nothing wrong with having knives with different grinds or steels while on your adventure, these days I have at least a few knives with me. So in my eyes there's absolutely nothing wrong with having a knife in stainless for food prep and cooking and another for the more abrasive camp tasks. I am pretty much a to each their own kind of guy.

Where I do have an issue, is when people say you CAN"T use this or that knife to do this or that. That's simply not a true statement at all in most cases. If you've watched my channel enough, you've seen me baton Mora basic and Companions, in both basic and HD versions, as well as carve things with large knives like an SRK. To prove my pint about thicker blades and scandi grinds can be just as slicy as thinner stock and other grinds I sliced up a grape and a cherry tomato using a Joker Ember. The Ember not only has a scandi grind, and is a pretty thick .15". I did not do this to be an ass hat, I did this to disprove the argument of thick blades with certain grinds can't do food prep. To prove it CAN in fact be done, but some choose not too, or won't, or they can't. I can't make magical fart gnomes appear, but I can use my knifes. I also wonder what food people make in camp where they have to or want to carve an onion or tomato paper thin. I mean, it's camp food, it's supposed to be hearty. 

I also feel you should by the knife you want, like, and can afford. If you happen to like a tactical looking knife and want to use it as a camp knife, do so and don't let anyone tell you not too. Many people like the ESEE 4 in it's base configuration for a camp/bushcraft knife. The ESEE 4 in that form is designed as a tactical knife. Many others really like the Becker BK16, which is also a tactical knife. If you want that walnut handled drop point with the nice leather sheath then buy that. Buy what you want and learn to use it. It doesn't matter if it's a popular knife among the cool kids or not.

I'm going to illustrate below how 4 knives of very different specs can accomplish the same task. Two of those knives are are not technically camp or bushcraft knifes and one is even classified as a crowbar with an edge by many. I'm using the feather stick as my comparative test task. A feather stick will show how fine of a task a knife can do as it takes the skill of control, which is a key fundamental for finer knife tasks like carving or food prep. I'm not using a soft wood for this demonstration either. It's hard maple. If the knife can make fine curls then it can slice a tomato just fine.

Top To Bottom: BPS B1, Cold Steel SRK, Joker Campero, Becker BK2.

First Up is the BPS B1. It has a Scandinavian grind, and the blade is .1" . This is a pretty basic and popular over all profile for a camp/bushcraft knife.

Next we have the Joker Campero. This one is a full flat grind with a blade thickness of .13". This is another classic camp/bushcraft profile.

Next is the Cold Steel SRK. One of my favorite camp knives. The blade is .2" thick and has a hollow grind (the argument of hollow vs flat rages on, and that's not for this discussion). This also some in a compact version now, so you get the solid quality of the SRK is a smaller package over all.

Lastly we have the beast Becker BK2. Commonly referred to as a crowbar. This one's a beefy /25 (1/4"!) thick and has a full flat grind.

As you can see I progressively got thicker with the blades. But the curls made with each knife didn't vary much at all. IF at all. This is because I paid attention to my knife angle, taking blade thickness out of the equation. It's clear that it was not the knife, but my use of the knife that was the key. Not the way the knife looked, the grind, whether it was a tactical/survival looking knife or a classic looking bushcraft knife, but the skill I have taught myself.

In closing:

It's not the knife.........................

Cordage Tip

 I just wanted to share the little tip/trick for stowing cordage. Probably more to the point, how to stow a ridgeline with a couple loops for prusik knots.

Many people just stow cordage in a pouch bag inside our packs or shelter kits. Generally in hanks of varying sizes like this. Possibly a carabiner or two. I also use d-clamps.

In the image above the longer hank is the ridgeline, with the two loose pieces for use as prusik knots or other tie on loops. All this in a small pouch is nice and neat, but I have to either sift through the pouch or dump it out to get my ridgeline and strands to tie out a loop or two. An easier way is to tie the strands into loops, and then you can attach them to the ridgeline along with the carabiners like in the picture below.

Now, when I want to get my ridgeline out to set up it's all lashed together so I'm not digging around or dumping.

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Maybe you don't use or want to use the the carabiners?

I'd still pre-tie my loops. Then I'd simply lay them on the ridgeline before I wrapped/lashed it.

The nice thing about using the method above is it's no frills and won't catch on anything else in the pouch or pack. There's also another plus to this: You can color code things. Example, the general rule of thumb for a ridgeline is 25 feet in length. The one above is only 23', so by having those green loops I can easily tell visually which ridgeline that is. You can also still loop a carabiner into the loops here as well if you chose too.