Wednesday, November 19, 2025

Axe Edges

 If you ask how to sharpen an axe or how sharp an axe should be on the internet, you're going to get a lot of varied replies or information. I'm going to add to the confusion, as well state a few things that will make a collector cringe.



You can sharpen a wall hanger any way you like. Make it hairsplitting sharp and use it to shave.


You should not make a user axe or hatchet shaving sharp! Yes, I just said that! The sharper and thinner the edge of an axe is, the easier and more prone it will be to chipping or possibly rolling. An axe should be sharp enough to cut paper, and that's all that's needed. It merely needs to be able to chop and cut through wood fibers. It does not need to help with manscaping.

Some people like to reshape the axe head. There's nothing wrong with that, but a user axe should be sort of wide at and behind the cheek. The theory to thinning the cheek is for felling and making the edge slice/cut into the wood better. To make chopping easier. But a thin axe head isn't always the best for splitting. A wider cheek and butt make it much easier to split wood. A wider cheek will cause the wood to septate (split) easier. Look at a splitting maul and you'll see exactly what I mean. So it's sort of a catch 22? No. Not really. I'll explain:
When we head off into the woods to camp, the odds of felling a tree are slim. Very slim. In fact, most states do not allow us to fell even dead standing trees on public land. So in reality, felling can be removed from the equation. This leaves us with possibly needing to buck and split laying and downed trees. Bucking is more or less the same as felling. You want to chop the log into reasonable size lengths to be able to split. But now you open a new conundrum- it's difficult to split small pieces of wood that do not have flat ends. The best way to fix this is to use a saw to buck and an axe for felling and splitting. But, we're not talking about saws here, are we?...
So what's the best options? Loaded question. No right or wrong answer, but I will suggest using something with a sort of thin bit, while the cheek widens a bit to force easier splitting. Something like a convex angle to the cheek with a fair amount of depth to the cheek area. Sharpened enough to cut a sheet of paper. This will offer a decent edge for both bucking and splitting.

Just my personal point of view from almost 5 decades of camping and using axes. Feel free to join the discussion over on the Firepit Outdoors Forum.

Try Stick

 The following pictures are a couple of years old, they are from a challenge I was involved in at that time. This is pretty much a text book...