Adirondack Bushcraft Brothers™

 In moving the invitational trip to being set up via my forum I also wanted to give the group a name and come up with a couple of logo's. The logo with the most votes will be used.

Adirondack Bushcraft Brothers™

Logo A

Logo B

I'll make a poll on the forum and give this two weeks.
_____________________________________________________________________


Polls done. Only one pother person was gracious enough to take the time to vote. So the winner is B.

Vintage VS Modern

 If you look around you're going to see a lot of gear with the bushcraft label. From knives to underwear. From gloves to hats. Marketing has laid a big claim to the hobby and it can be a little numbing to sift through it all. Leather and canvas or modern synthetic materials, old school steel on a knife or super steel. Titanium or aluminum cooking gear...

Does any of it really matter? No.

I see guys using old heavy canvas tarps, oil lanterns, eating their food from a slab of wood, wearing 1800's style boots and or clothing, but having to have the latest knife steel.

On the opposite side of that spectrum I see guys using ultralight or more modern gear but only carrying a Swiss Army Knife which is a pretty classic knife in old school steel.

Does either matter? Nope. Not one little bit. But it is a solid topic for discussion.

I will admit, I have scratched my head many times when I see someone in a campground using an old style canvas wall tent but running a generator to power a TV. Or using an ultra light tent and using an old fashioned oil lantern. There's nothing wrong with either set up. We all do bushcraft a little different and it's not the gear, but the skills we have that should matter more. Magnacut or 1095 should mean nothing if you have knife skills. Canvas or poly for a tent or tarp means nothing as long as your shelter keeps you dry.

Most of my gear is sort of newish. I like lighter tents and I have a few lightweight tarps. I still have and use the old big box store heavy tarps too. My tents are modern materials. My knives range from tactical to classic in look, but I don't think I have any in a super steel. My cookware is either stainless or titanium these days as carrying cast iron is a bit heavy and I got away from aluminum decades ago. I got rid of the ALICE gear to opt for lighter packs and pouches. I use battery operated lanterns instead of gas. I do have a a few gas stoves that get used, but not often. I live in an area where fires are not permitted on the local public land, so I do use a solid fuel stove pretty often. Due to some health stuff most of my camping is car camping these days, and I still prefer the lower weight of more modern gear.

The only point here is the materials of your gear don't matter. Using your gear and developing wood skills is what matters. So go out and have an adventure with your chosen gear and enjoy the time in the woods. Trust me when I say the woods don't care if it's canvas and leather or poly or silnylon or AUS8 or AEBL.

DIY Possibles Pouch

 Sometime we have little items that end up floating in the bottom of our packs. Cordage, toiletries, medicines (if you need them), or maybe something else. If you have an old pair of cargo pants you need to toss out you can cut the pockets off the legs and use them as as pouches/bags to hold al those odd ball items. Simply cut around the pocked as close as possible and there your done.

Knots Revisited

 The weather is not cooperating these days. If it's not raining it's 96* with humidity levels of 95-99%, and dew points of around 70+. What that means is if it's 92* out we have a real feel of about 110* and your clothes get wet just walking to your car from the moisture in the air. I made a statement back in 2021, "Doing something where you are is better then doing nothing because of where you aren't.". Meaning, practicing skills at home has no shame. But, we practice to go out and put those skills to work in the woods!

Knots are certainly one of those skills that should be practiced over and over until they are second nature. Practicing at home is a great way to dial knots in and make them a permanent part of your wheelhouse.

A note here, there are two parts of a piece of cordage when dealing with knots. The standing end and the working end. The standing end will be the longer section that will be left alone or already attached and the working end will be the end you're working with. Example:

The shorter end is the working end the longer end is the standing end.

There are a ton of knots. There are books with hundreds of pages just discussing knots. The over the head part the sea flap jacker knot, the loop the end through your boot lace upside down when done knot... OK, so maybe not those, but hopefully I made my point. How many knots do you really need to learn for camping? Loaded question. I say learn as many as you want or like. But need is another mule. I say you only need to know 5. Sometimes you might need more then one knot for a single application. I'll explain that below.

I posted how to make a no frills or fuss ridgeline HERE . That ridgeline requires three knots. An over hand slipknot, and two slippery half hitches. The last two knots in that one application are actually called a truckers hitch. I did modify the truckers hitch a little as I'll show below.

I started with the typical slippery half hitch into the securing knot which I use a second slippery half hitch instead of the normal two half hitches. I do so because its easier, holds just as tight, and comes out of my line easier.

The modified truckers hitch.

If it makes you feel a little better you can add an over hand loop as a final knot. But, it's really not needed.

_____________________________________________________________________________

So those are two knots, (3 if you feel you need to have the added benefit of the last loop). But there's a few more that are good to learn and have in your wheel house.

1: The Taut Line Hitch. This can be used with a ridgeline if you prefer this over the truckers hitch, for tying out to trees or stakes.

Start by creating a bite (loop) around the object you are attaching the knot to.

Next, bring the working end under and back through the loop you created.

Repeat this step again so you have two wraps as pictured below.

Next we bring the working end down and wrap it over the standing end then back through this loop.

Pull the knot tight.

This knot can be moved back and forth but when pulled tight, friction will keep it in place.

2: The Prusik. This probably the most used knot there is and most commonly used on a ridgeline to tighten a tarp and keep it from loosening and sliding in. It's also a good knot to know to hand things from a ridgeline as well. This knot can often be altered and only need two wraps. Testing two will determine if you need the third wrap. If you try two and it slides add the third. For this example I'm doing the popular three wrap.

Start by placing a premade loop (just make a loop of cordage using a simple over hand knot ) over the line.

Now wrap the end with the knot around the line (either way is fine, just make sure the following wraps go the same way).

Repeat the last step twice more for a total of three wraps.

The pull it tight.

3: The Sheet Bend. Very useful for attaching two lengths of cordage together.

Start by making a bite with one length of cordage.

Now pass the other end of the other length through the bite.

Pass the working end down and behind the bite.

Now bring the working end up and pass it under itself but over the bite.

Pull tight.

_________________________________________________________________________

These should be all one would need in camp. If you dial these in so you know them and can do them without thinking about it you should not actually need any other knots.